Climbing Peak Somoni (Kommunizm)
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Climbing in Tajikistan. Combined tour in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan
Peak Kommunism is situated in the Northwest part of the Pamir range abutting the ranges named after the Academy of Science and Peter the First.
Military topographer I. Dorodiev did the geodetic survey of the middle section of Fedechenko Glacier which was unknown at that time, and surrounding peaks. The coordinates of the peak and its height (7495 m) were defined in 1929 upon decryption of photo-geodetic surveying. In 1931 it was named Peak Stalin, in 1961 - Peak Communism, and in 1999 - Peak Somoni.
In 1933, the Soviet Academy of Science organized the Tadjik-Pamir expedition, in which 215 members of the scientific body and about 400 assistants took part. The aim of ascending the highest point in the country, Stalin Peak (Peak Communism), both for scientific and political purposes, was set for them.
On July 24, having come to the Bivachniy glacier, the group of mountaineers began their route.
On July 30, N. Nikolaev, a mountaineer, died having fallen off a high cliff. A few days later, D. Iralle, a porter, died from pneumonia. However, in spite of everything, the ascent went on.
On August 22, six mountaineers, headed by Gorbunov, went for the final storm of the summit. Three mountaineers quit the ascent at 6900 m., as they had no strength left. N. Gorbunov, E. Abalakov and A. Chetye continued the ascent.
On September 1, a blizzard began. The tempest continued for several days. A. Chetye fell ill. Between them they had just a can of food and a bar of chocolate.
On September 3, the weather improved and A. Gorbunov, with Abalakov, decided to try for the summit. At an altitude of 7380 m. N. Gorbunov had to stop due to severely frostbitten feet. Abalakov continued to ascend alone. Having reached the top, he descended to Nikolay Gorbunov and then to Chetye, and they all together continued the descent.
Day 1: Arrival in Tashkent airport. Accommodation in hotel. Lunch. Free time. Dinner. Overnight in Tashkent.
Day 2: Breakfast. Transfer to Uzbek-Tajik border. Cross the border. Transfer to Khojent (170 km). Flight to Dushanbe. Accommodation in hotel. Dinner. Overnight in Dushanbe.
Day 3-22: Helicopter transfer Dushanbe-Moskvina Glade (4200 m) (1 hr 40 min). Acclimatization and ascent to Kozhenevski Peak and Somoni peak.
Day 23-26: Rest days.
Day 27: Helicopter transfer Base camp - Dushanbe (260 km, 1 hr 40 min). Accommodation in hotel. Overnight in Dushanbe.
Day 28: Breakfast. Flight to Khojent. Transfer to Tajik-Uzbek border. Cross the border. Transfer to Tashkent (170 km). Accommodation in hotel. Dinner. Overnight in Tashkent.
Day 29: Breakfast. Transfer to Tashkent airport for flight to next destination (according to time table).
Short description of ascent to Peak Somoni.
Base camp - Mt. Somoni (Kommunism) Peak. Trek up Walter Glacier. Traverse across northern slope (4-5 hrs). Camp (5300 m). Trek up the right side of the moraine of the Walter Glacier. Crossing the glacier across from the ice plateau beneath the walls of the Pamir Big Plateau. It is necessary to cross the ice plateau in the early hours and with maximum speed. The route extends further on rock with ascent to the crest. Travel time is about 6-7 hours.
Camp (5300 m) - Camp (5800 m). Northern ridge (4-5 hrs). Technically, the entire route is not difficult, on a wide cornice of 35-40 degrees. Ropes are secured with ice protection. Travel time is about 5-6 hrs.
Camp (5800 m) - Camp (6100 m). Pamir Big Plateau (4-5 hrs). Early start and ascent to the "two-headed" summit. Crevasses are possible, and group will be roped. Traverse to the left after surmounting the crest, with a descent to Pamir Big Plateau. Travel time is 4 hours.
Camp (6900 m) - northern ice-snow slope of Peak Dushanbe (7-8 hrs). Early start. Large number of crevasses. Snow ascent is very steep, group will be roped, there is high avalanche danger here. Ascent is not technically difficult. After ascent to Peak Dushanbe (7000 m.) descent to camp (6900 m) Travel time is 7-8 hours.
Camp (6900 m) - summit - return to camp (6900 m) (8 - 9 hrs). Very early start, traveling in a roped group along a steep snowy slope to the rocky peak. Ropes will be fastened to the rock. After rock climb, transit to Peak Somoni (Kommunizm) along a narrow ridge. Strong winds are possible. During descent, one needs to pay attention to the snowy slope beyond the rock. At this part of the itinerary, severe falls have occurred. In the case of bad weather it is necessary to have flags for securely marking the route.
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